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Photography and Fashion Since the 1990s

【Extended】—2020.7.19

• 【Extended】—2020.7.19
• Closed Every Monday (however, it will remain open if Monday is a public holiday and close the following day).
• Admission：Adults ￥800／College Students ￥700／High School and Junior High School Students, Over 65 ￥600 * Admission is free for grade school children or younger; junior high school students living or attending schools in the Tokyo metropolitan area and holders of Japan’s disability identification cards (shogaisha techo) together with two caregiver. *Multiple discounts do not apply.

The Tokyo Photographic Art Museum is delighted to present Photography and Fashion Since the 1990s, an exhibition exploring the relationship between photography and fashion from the 1990s onward.
As the world of fashion has evolved, photography has played a pivotal part in conveying the appeal of garments by fashion designers. At times, images created by photography have appealed more than the garments themselves, and such iconic imagery has symbolized the age.
The 1990s saw the emergence of photographers who went beyond the conventional framework for communicating the appeal of fashion items to create images that appeal to people. Moreover, fashion magazines appeared that took an independent stance in transmitting information. Images created from new points of view influenced people’s thinking and lifestyles. Those images have been referred to repeatedly by subsequent generations.
Since the first decade of the twenty-first century, the relationship between photography and fashion has undergone even more changes. In the past, news about the latest fashion shows and exhibitions was transmitted through a limited group of intermediaries: newspaper and magazine editors and writers, for example. In recent years, however, that information has reached the hands of the general public, without a time lag, via SNS platforms such as Twitter and Instagram. Moreover, the people on the receiving end of this information are not merely taking it in: they send out their own information, in many forms, of which the tagged selfie is a classic example.
For this exhibition, we have welcomed as its supervisor Nakako Hayashi, who has observed the worlds of fashion and the arts as a long-term editor of the culture magazine Hanatsubaki. Through works by artists in Japan and abroad, the exhibition attempts to explore the relationship between photography and fashion. It displays, in addition to photographs, rare fashion magazines that became major turning points in their time and is accompanied for an engaging look at photography and fashion from many angles.

Artists
Anders Edström, Kyoji Takashi, Elein Fleiss, Yukinori Maeda, PUGMENT, Takashi Homma

Anders Edström
Born in Sweden in 1966. After moving to Paris in 1990, began working with the designer Martin Margiela, photographing for Maison Martin Margiela, for many years. His work has been published in the fashion and culture magazine "Purple" and many other magazines. Main solo exhibition: “Spreads” (Fullersta Gård, 2019); main group exhibitions: "Elysian Fields" (Centre Pompidou, 2000), "Not in Fashion" (Museum für Moderne Kunst, Frankfurt, 2010), "The Second Yebisu International Festival for Art & Alternative Visions" (Tokyo Photographic Art Museum formerly known as Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography, 2010) and "The Unseen Relationship: Form and Abstraction" (Kawamura Memorial DIC Museum of Art, 2012).

Martin Margiela spring/summer 94, 1993　©Anders Edström

Kyoji Takahashi
Born in 1960. Since the 1990s, his work has been used in advertising and in "Purple" and other fashion and culture magazines. Solo exhibitions include "The Depth of Night" (nap gallery, 2016) and "WOrld’s End" (nap gallery, 2019); group exhibitions include "Elysian Fields" (Centre Pompidou, 2000). His photo books including "The Mad Broom of Life" (Yobisha, 1994), "Road Movie" (Little More, 1995), "Takahashi Kyoji" (Korinsha Shuppan, 1996), "Life Goes On" (Korinsha Shuppan, 1997), and "WOrld’s End" (Blue Sheep, 2019).

Tokyo Girl, From The Mad Broom of Life, 1992, Chromogenic print　©Kyoji Takahashi, courtesy of nap gallery

Elein Fleiss
Born in France in 1968. From 1992 to the early 2000s, published the fashion and culture magazine "Purple", applying an independent editorial policy. From 2004 to 2008, published The "Purple" Journal, a journalistic magazine from an individual perspective. Currently is based in the countryside of southwestern France and is active in photography and writing.

Ici-bas (In this lower world), 2019, Slide projection ©Elein Fleiss

Yukinori Maeda
Contemporary artist, leader of COSMIC WONDER. Expresses spiritual spaces, in photographs, three-dimensional works, and paintings, with phenomena he has experienced as his themes. Main solo exhibition: "Splashed Ink Landscape: Dragon Palace at Jirisan" (Taka Ishii Gallery, Tokyo, 2018). Main group exhibition: "OUR MAGIC HOUR—How Much of the World Can We Know?"(Yokohama Triennale 2011). Presently living and working an old thatched farmhouse in the mountains north of Kyoto.

Spiritual Discourse, 2020, Hand crafted paper (washi), Japanese ink, grass flowers(persimmon leaves, linden flower, lavender, wild flower), old hemp cloth　©Yukinori Maeda, courtesy of Taka Ishii Gallery
 
PUGMENT
A fashion label founded in Tokyo in 2014. Observes the process by which human actions alter the value and meaning of garments and incorporates that in its clothing creation process. Addressing the relationship between images and people in the fashion area, presents garments for a different viewpoint on conventional values, contexts, and information. Main shows include "1XXX-2018-2XXX"(KAYOKOYUKI / Utrecht / n id a deux, 2018) and "MOT Annual 2019, Echo after Echo: Summoned Voices, New Shadows"(Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo, 2019–20).

From Spring 2018, 2017　©PUGMENT

Takashi Homma
Born in Tokyo in 1962. Has published many photo books; author of "Fun Photography: Photo Class for Kids" (Heibonsha, 2009). Recent photo books include "THE NARCISSISTIC CITY" (MACK, 2016), "TRAILS" (MACK, 2019) and "Looking Through: Le Corbusier Windows" (Window Research Institute, Canadian Centre for Architecture, Walther König, 2020). Currently a visiting professor at the Tokyo Zokei University graduate school.

PUGMENT×Takashi Homma From the series Images, 2019, Chromogenic print　©PUGMENT／©Takashi Homma


Purple, No. 3, 1999, Magazine [Photo: Anders Edström]
*Purple：The fashion and culture magazine, founded in 1992 by the editors Elein Fleiss and Olivier Zahm.


here and there vol.1 cover First published in 2002 by Nakako Hayashi (supervisor of this exhibition). The magazine is spun out of the dialogue between artists of the same era.

Supervisor
Nakako Hayashi
Born in 1966. After working in the editorial department of "Hanatsubaki", a magazine published by Shiseido, from 1988–2001, went freelance. Launched "here and there", a personal magazine woven of dialogues with contemporary artists. In "You reach out - right now - for something:Questioning the concept of fashion",(Space Shower Network, 2011), she introduced artists in Japan and abroad who are exploring contemporary methods of making and styles with fashion as their axis. In 2014, a group exhibition, "Expanded Fashion", that included artists she had introduced in her book was held at the Art Tower Mito Contemporary Art Gallery and the Marugame Genichiro-Inokuma Museum of Contemporary Art.

□Organized by Tokyo Photographic Art Museum, Tokyo Metropolitan Foundation for History and Culture, The Yomiuri Shimbun, The Japan Association of Art Museums
□Sponsored by Lion Corporation, Dai Nippon Printing Co., Ltd., Sompo Japan Insurance Inc.,Nippon Television Network Corporation, The Corporate Membership of Tokyo Photographic Art Museum